Matjiesfontein

A unique historical town that is one-of-a-kind

Matjiesfontein already had more than a century of history when an insignificant railway was built at last in the depths of Karoo. 
Matjiesfontein would remain an obscure little town until it was bought by a young Scot, James Logan in 1883. The man would be responsible for spreading the name of the town all the way to Cape Province and eventually across South Africa.

James Logan was born in November 1857 at Reston, Berwickshire. His father was a Scot who worked at North British Railway. James would quit school at the age of fifteen and follow his father's footsteps to join the North British Railway as a clerk.

However, Logan was in the prime of his youth, and given his ambitions and intelligence, the position of a mere clerk was simply lacking in challenges. And thus, when he was seventeen, Logan decided to try his luck out in the sea by becoming a sailor. Two years later, the Australian vessel Rockhampton that James served on ran smack dab into a storm near Cape Province, and the ship had no choice but to anchor at Simon's Town to wait for the storm to pass. This was when Logan decided that he would give up his profession as a sailor and remain at Simon's Town in search for new opportunities.

When he arrived at Cape Town, Logan had no more than five pounds in his pocket. But with his previous work experience back in Scotland, he managed to secure a position at the newly established Cape Town Railway Station Company. Logan started off as a mere porter and worked five hours a day. However, due to his abilities and competence, he earned his chance for promotion in a very short time. When Logan became twenty years of age, he was already the station master at the newly finished Cape Town Railway Station. A year later, he married Miss Emma Haylett and eventually became the district superintendent of the Hex River - Prince Albert Road section.

Logan was stationed at Touws River at a place by the name of Montagu Road. The town of Matjiesfontein was 55 km to the north along the railway. Regardless of the means of transportation, both of these routes were the main lines towards the north that many travelers traverse on wagons, horse carriages or train to Kimberley - the mine with most abundant diamond deposit. Gold reef was discovered there shortly after. Back then, the prices of food and accommodation were considerably expensive. It soon occurred to Logan that if he could provide both services at the same time, the business would be much more lucrative compared to the wages he was earning from the railway administration.

And thus, the rough sketch of a railway dining car business took shape in Logan's mind as the opportunity for a restaurant establishment by the railway station has yet to be exploited. And just like that, Jimmy Logan jump out of his bed one day and put things in motion. Technically, he was still working for the railway company at the time but he was given the permission to run a railway restaurant at Touws River. With that, he became the proprietor of a restaurant. Incidentally, the Frere Hotel was completed in the same year and Logan bought the establishment as well. He promptly resigned from the railway company to focus on his new career.
 

Ever since he had moved to Touws River, Logan was delighted at the fact that the dry and clean karoo air cured his chest pains, which had troubled him for years.  
And hence in 1883, he decided to take his wife and two children along to permanently reside in Matjiesfontein. In 1884, he acquired the permit to build his own hotel, and from then on, Logan was on the path towards tremendous wealth and status that he has always dreamt of. 

During the period from 1884 to the Anglo Boer War, Logan managed to build a Victorian styled resort hotel that emanated elegance. Tourists would visit the place not just for their vacations but also to improve their health. Later on, the hotel became the favorite establishment for many well-to-do travelers and celebrities. For instance, the renowned South African writer Olive Schreiner was among those who frequented the town. The small house that she used to lodge during her visit is now known as the Olive Schreiner Cottage.

Apart from Mr. Porter Rhodes (who discovered the Porter Rhodes diamond) who regularly visited the town, for several years, countless visitors of high social status have traveled to Matjiesfontein. These prominent figures include high-ranking government officials, leaders from all over the world, high profile politicians from Cape Province and even British royalties. The patronage of these distinguished visitors has helped to spread the fact that "Jimmy Logan is the landlord of Matjiesfontein" across the globe.

Not surprisingly, Matjiesfontein also happened to be the headquarters of Logan's vast business empire (for a specific period of time, Logan held the permits to set up railway restaurants from Cape Province all the way to Bulawayo Province in Zimbabwe). After a decade since Logan resigned from the railway company, he managed to own nearly 100,000 acres of farmland near the province. At the age of 36, Logan commenced his career of civil service as a member of parliament in Cape Province, where he served for many terms at the upper and lower houses.

During the Anglo Boer War, troops of no less than 10,000 men and 20,000 horses camped around the town of Matjiesfontein (one can still find rusty cans of beef and biscuit rations in the plains). Lord Milner Hotel was actually the site of rehabilitation and recovery for patients during the war. In addition, the tower situated in the middle of the hotel was also used as an outpost by the army.

J.D. Logan passed away in 1920 at the age of 63. From then on, the hotel was on its way towards decline as it drew less celebrities and politicians. When the National Road was built adjacent to the hotel due to the outbreak of World War Two, it certainly seemed that the hotel's fate of inevitable decline was sealed.

Although the hotel was in a poor shape and close to dilapidation, the Victorian styled architecture still boasted substantial potential of revitalization and prosperity as Jimmy Logan still awaited for the right opportunity to develop railway restaurants.
 

In 1968, David Rawdon acquired the hotel and after almost two years, the hotel that was formerly known as Hotel Milner was renamed to Lord Milner on November 1, 1970.  
The renovated Lord Milner reopened as a highly elegant and luxurious hotel that offers quality accommodation and exquisite cuisine.

Lord Milner offers 14 extravagantly furnished guestrooms that are complete with bath amenities. In addition, the hotel also has a special suite that has its exclusive garden. A retro-styled public resting area and library are directly connected to spacious courtyard and corridors.

On the right of the resting area and the library is the "Laird's Arm"; a Victorian, country-styled pub that is filled with warm and pleasant atmosphere. Displayed at the pub are valueless photographs featuring Jimmy Logan himself, renowned cricket players and possibly the largest domestic sponsor of numerous popular sports in South Africa.

Taking a stroll from Logan Street to Cape Town, one will see a unique architecture that look like three separate buildings conjoined to two houses. The central portion of the building is actually a post office/gift shop that sells local spirits and souvenirs. To the left of the post office is a small house that is better known as the Oliver Schreiner Cottage. It earned the name when the critically acclaimed writer Olive Schreiner leased the property from the landlord as a temporary residence.

On the right of the post office is a suite decorated with an old museum theme. The accommodation is perfect for tourists traveling with their entire families. Not far from the suite is a small back alley; take the passage and you will reach the town center/concierge.

The store where Logan used to sell his merchandize was turned into a coffee house after renovation. You can buy a cup of delicious coffee on the first floor, and if you are feeling hungry, you could also try out some baked pastry and sandwiches at the coffee house.

There are more than six guestrooms located to the rear of the coffee house, which is adjacent to the Logan's Masonic Lodge. It is also known as Die Losiehuis and is probably the oldest building at Matjiesfontein. It is also a suitable choice of accommodation at affordable rates for tourists traveling with their families. The "Jimmy's Tavern" serves conventional dinners for the guests staying there.

Setting out from here, one does not have to travel far to arrive at the Tweedside Lodget Complex, the local shopping center. This is also the existing residence of James Douglas Logan and his daughter (the wife of Colonel John Buist). Unfortunately, their residence is not open to public.

On the way back to Lord Milner, you will see the hotel that was operated by Jimmy Jr. (son of Logan), his wife and two stepsons somewhere around the Reston Villa. The hotel has four guestrooms, a changing room and a bathroom at present.

Proceeding further from the corner, one will come to the Baviaans River. The first architecture you will see at the left would be the Court House. The lavish building was completed back in 1897 and the four semi-detached houses will be renovated into a motel with parking lots to the front and back of the main building.

The next building you will see is an old "church' that was constructed in 1895. The architecture served as the venue of concerts in the past and it used to be a school at a point in the past. The place is the place of recreation for local residents and various conferences and seminars will also be held there.

The old police station (with perimeter fence complete with glass shards) has two guestrooms with bathroom amenities, and the same goes for the neighboring River Cottage.

The aerial view of Matjiesfontein looks as if two "L-shaped arms" surround the town itself. Beyond the L-shaped enclosure lies a wide, open square where visitors will find several villas and delightful garden suites available for accommodation. One distinctive feature shared by all guestrooms here is the unobstructed view of an indoor pool and reservoir from the window. Both the pool and reservoir were built over a century ago by their landlords at the time. Guests can rest at the garden by the poolside and enjoy scenic views.

Once all ongoing renovations have been completed, Matjiesfontein shall have up to 70 guestrooms (with the majority of them complete with bathroom amenities) to accommodate travelers. In addition, the guestrooms will also be furnished with a variety of facilities for the benefit of guests.

Situated across the road is a "new" railway station that was completed in December 1890. Rendered obsolete by modern technology, the establishment is currently no longer in use as a railway station. Instead, it has been turned into a fully functional conference center and museum. Visitors should not miss the Mary Rawdon Museum (named after David Rawdon's mother) as it features a comprehensive collection of valuable and rare displays. It is also the only large private museum in the area that is open to the public. On a related note, the Transnet Museum is located right next to the old manual signal display area.

Access to Matjiesfontein is very easy and convenient; simply take the National Road from Cape Town and head north for approximately 240 km to arrive at the destination.

If you wish to make your trip as enjoyable as your stay at Logan's hotel, there is no reason why you should miss out the train ride. The passing scenery you will get to see along the journey is nothing less majestic. When you reach the plateau region of Karoo (which is over 1000 meters in elevation), the air you breath in will be as savory as dry champagne.
 

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